The Lure of Issan

The northeast of Thailand, a group of 18 culturally diverse provinces collectively known as Issan, is one of the country’s most fascinating regions. Held in great affection by many Thais and long-term expatriates, Issan is known as the heart of the country. Cultural rich and populated by fun-loving, resilient and hard-working people, Issan has much to offer visitors to the country. Yet with only two percent of tourists visiting the region it is clear that many travelers in Thailand are missing out on a beautiful and distinctive part of the kingdom.

Ban Chiang - The Earliest Record of Thai Civilization
Issan is regarded as the cradle of Thai civilization. Undoubtedly the most famous historical site in the region, in fact in Thailand, is Ban Chiang, an ancient settlement known for its pottery. 

Little is known about its exact origins or the spread of pot making technology in Southeast Asia but the find of prehistoric pots at Ban Chiang was one of the most significant ever made in the region. Here, during the mid 1960’s, a wide range of earthenware pots were unearthed, the earliest believed to date from 2100 BC while known production continued up until A.D. 200*. Pottery is still made in the area today but predominantly for sale to tourists. However, construction methods are little changed and the potters of old are believed to have followed a similar pattern to that of their contemporary cousins. Coils of clay used to raise the walls of the pot were then shaped using a paddle and anvil – supporting the inside of the pot with a large handheld stone and beating the outer surface with a wooden paddle. Over the years a variety of methods were used to decorate Ban Chiang pottery including incising, impressing with fired clay roulettes and the distinctive ochre swirls which so strongly characterize the ware.  Although the pots were thought to have been used as storage vessels they were clearly highly valued. Many were discovered alongside bodies at excavated burial sites in Ban Chiang.

The Ban Chiang Archaeological site is recognised as being of great cultural significance and was declared a United Nations World Heritage site. Located a few miles from Udon Thani, it comprises of two major displays. The first is the Ban Chiang National Museum which houses an impressive collection of prehistoric pottery and bronze artifacts discovered in the area. The second part consists of an open-air compound of excavated burial sites with the skeletons and artifacts left in site.

The ruins of Phimai, Nakon Ratchasima
Issan is scattered with remarkable ruins that chart its rich history. Of the many ancient temple sites, the most spectacular is Phimai, not far from the booming central Issan town of Nakon Ratchasima (also known as Khorat). Easily reached from Khorat by bus, the ruins of Phimai are an essential part of any itinerary for the northeast. The temple structure is actually Khmer and pre-dates Angkor in Cambodia. During the glory days of the Angkor empire, Phimai was directly connected by road to Angkor.

An admirable reconstruction has taken place at Phimai by the Fine Arts Department of Thailand. Impressive sound and light shows are regularly held at the ruins and the annual Loi Krathong festival held here in November rivals the one held in Sukhothai.

Issan Food
Thailand is often described as a ‘food culture’, a statement that implies that food is more than simply sustenance but the centre of almost every aspect of the social life. Undoubtedly one of the most frequently heard greetings in the country is ‘kin khao yang?’, or ‘have you eaten yet.’  The availability of food and the mind-boggling range of delicious bites on offer are part of the very fabric of the country, making it one of the most exciting places in the world to dine.

The fiery food of Issan is as distinctive as the people and their culture. Once dismissed by central Thais and the wealthy of Bangkok, Issan food has over the past two decades enjoyed enormous popularity and penetrated the entire country. As part of the Asian tiger economies much of the Thailand’s boom time growth and investment during the early 90s focused on Bangkok, by-passing the rural areas. Resilient and hardworking, Issan people moved in droves to the big city to work as taxis drivers or as labour on construction sites, bringing with them their music, culture and of course, food.

Adaptable Issan workers soon established streets stalls selling northeastern delights across the entire city. Although originally intended to feed their own, the simple yet fiery food proved a hit with everyone. Somtam, a spicy raw papaya salad, is the most well known dish from the northeast. If anything could be considered the national dish of Thailand, it is somtam. Made in a large pestle and mortar called a krok, somtam sellers pepper the streets of Bangkok, the familiar pok, pok, pok sound made as the dish is mixed altering passers-by to their presence. Accompanied by the equally famous gai yang, or grilled chicken and sticky rice, a glutinous variety, steamed and eaten with the hand, Issan food is now a regular feature on restaurant menus.

Issan Music
In keeping with the fun-loving nature of Issan people, the music of the region is some of the best up-tempo music around. The most popular style of modern Thai music, mor lam, demonstrates clear influences from Laos. With a considerable population of ethnic Laos people in Issan, mor lam is widely played and incredibly popular across the region.  The quick tempo and rhythmic vocals make it the perfect music to dance to. The song lyrics often talk about unrequited love and are littered with sexual innuendo. Other popular topics are the difficulties of life in rural Issan, all lightened by humour. Performances of live mor lam music in Issan, and indeed in Bangkok, are common and in rural areas are an essential part of festivals and ceremonies.

* Joyce C. White, Ph.D., Senior Research Scientist, University of Pennsylvania Museum

About the contributor
Mick Shippen is a freelance writer and ceramicist from England who has lived in Thailand for the past 8 years.   Having lived in the northern city of Chiang Mai for 6 years, he is currently based in Bangkok. His travel articles have been widely published but his main area of interest in is Asian Arts and Crafts. He has recently completed ‘The Traditional Ceramics of South East Asia’ in which he writes with passion and understanding, painting for us a vivid picture of life in rural pot-making communities across Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Malaysia and Cambodia. The descriptive text and accompanying images not only detail the making and firing techniques of village potters but also provide valuable cultural insight into the lives of rural craftsmen. Mick Shippen is currently working on a new book project.